A quick recap

Since I've gotten so far behind on my journal, I've decided to just do a quick recap from where I left off until the Washington border. I plan on coming back to this section in detail after I finish the trail. And since everyday is so different, and I have hundreds of pictures, it will be easy to remember  even the smaller details. But for now here is a quick recap.

The Sierras were incredible. Our group slowed down significantly because we wanted to really enjoy the high Sierra. We averaged about 16-17 miles a day, which may sound like a lot, but when you are used to doing 25+ a day it was a piece of cake. There were 8 major mountain passes we had to cross over. At the top of each pass we were rewarded with spectacular  views of dozens of snowy peaks all around us. The snow made the scenery beautiful  but it does make for some difficult travel. On each pass, I usually took at least one glisade down for fun. The only pass I ran into trouble was Glenn pass as I talked about in my last post. We had to hike through quite a but of snow through the Sierras.  It wasn't so bad in the mornings when the snow had refrozen, but by the afternoon we would be postholing sometimes down to our waist in the slushy  snow.  All the melting snow meant that all the streams and rivers were raging. Evolution creek was our biggest crossing, which had a swift current that came up to my waist. Also our shoes were wet most of the day from all the streams crossings. June 21st, the summer solstice, is known as hike naked day on the pct. I was the only one in my group brave enough to participate. I hiked up to the top of a 12,500 pass naked and more than surprised some unknowing jmt hikers when I reached the top. Our whole group stopped filtering water. Every night we camped in scenery totally  different  from the previous night. We had spectacular sunrises, sunsets,  and stars everyday. I lost a lot of weight in the sierras, so much I had to add even more padding to my hipbelt. The mosquitos  came out in the sierras. Sometimes they were so bad I found myself literally running down the trail to escape them. Other times I was like an air traffic controller swinging my trekking poles around to keep the mosquitos away. By the time we had gotten through the Sierras my group had gotten separated. It was so much fun hiking with them, but we all kinda started developing our own hiking paces after 900 miles together. But Dilly Dally and I stuck together and we are still hiking together here in Washington. I miss my group, but being apart from them has allowed me to meet so many other hikers now. 

Once out of the Sierras I was cruising in Northern California. With our slow down in the Sierras dilly dally and i were feeling a little behind schedule, so we made it a rule that we had to at least 20 miles a day. At first it was hard to stick too, but we got better and better with each day. We organized a 4th of July party on trail with about 20 other hikers. We all packed out booze and special food from town to make it a big celabration. It was one of my favorite nights on trail people wise. We walked along the west rim of Lake Tahoe and had spectacular sunrises views of it for about 4 days. Next we passed by Lassen and Mt. Shasta which would remain in view for weeks on the trail. Each time we saw Shasta it gradually grew a little bigger until it was right in your face, then it gradually grew smaller until it was out of view. Summer came into full swing in Northern California, sometimes bringing  the temperature near 100 degrees. We spent one afternoon at Burney falls, which I highly recommend if you are ever in the area. Just before the Oregon border we reached the trinity alps, which I new nothing about. They were like walking through a mini Sierra.  After ore than three months of hiking we finally reached the Oregon border. While just an arbitrary man made marker, it still felt like a huge acomplishment. 

The trail in Oregon flattened put relatively speaking. It by all means was not flat, but relative to some of the trail in California  it was.  But scenery sure wasn't flat. Crater lake, Mt theilson, the three sisters, Mt washington, three finger jack, Mt Jefferson, Mt hood, all dominated the skyline across oregon. Sometimes you could see three of volcanoes  to the south and three to the north at the same time.  There were also spectacular hidden lakes, lava fields, old growth forests,  amd Alpine meadows. And I probably met three new people each day.

While wasn't by any means a "quick recap" it barely scratched the surface of everything on the trail so far. I promise to go back after the trail I finish go more into to detail, but for now I want to be able to focus on the last stretch through Washington. Less than 500 miles to go!

Kearsarge to glenn pass

Our group hiked over Kearsarge pass the next morning to resupply in Bishop. Dilly dally's parents met us at the trailhead and did trail magic for all of us. Then we hopped in their rv and got a ride to bishop.  Bishop was a fun town with some great outfitters and restaurants.  We took a zero the next day, then took back off on the trail the day after that. Luckily dilly dally's parents were still there so we didn't have to worry about having to hitching.  

Once back on trail I was feeling great. I booked it over Kearsarge pass and before I knew it I was already at the top of Glenn pass. My group wasn't sure if they were going to do Glenn pass that day or the next, but I knew I from doing the JMT that I want to camp at Rae lakes just after glenn. I got to the top of Glenn pretty early so I hung out there for about 2 hours and ate lunch. I watch as the clouds and the light changed over all the peaks around me. After I nice siesta at the top, I started working my way down the pass. There was quite a bit of snow so i decided to do some glisading.  I got my ice axe out and chose my route. I made it about half down pretty smoothly, but after cresting over a hump I started picking up speed. I flipped over on my stomach and dug my axe in to try and self arrest, but the snow was too slushly. My axe caught a rock in the snow and ripped it from my hands. Now I was sliding uncontrolled with no axe, gaining spped. I flipped back on my back and dug my feet in as much as I could. I was running out of snow and a big boulder field was coming up. I closed my eyes and braced for impact. Somehow just before the rocks my right leg postholed up to my waist into the slushy snow and stopped me.  The whip lash from the sudden stop hurt, but I was relieved to be stopped. I opened my eyes and say that I was only about 20 feet from the end of the snow. I had to collect myself and calm down for about 10 minutes before I started moving again. Once I started moving I realized my right leg was trapped in the snow up to my waist. I had dropped my axe so i had to use my trekking pole to dig myself out. I took about 20 minutes becaise the snow had compacted all around me and was basically ice, but I finally got it out. I scanned thesnow above to try and find my axe. I eventually found it and it about 100 yards above me. I carefully hiked back up postholing up to my knees every three or four steps until i got my axe back. I glisaded back down oy pack making sure to keep control of my speed this time. Even though it was a little scary for a few moments, I still had a blast sliding down, though i knew i i as lucky I didn't get hurt. I continued on down to Rae lakes.  I found a beautiful campsite near the water and fit ready for an awesome sunset.  Dilly found me after about an hour and said the others weren't sure if they were going to do the pass today or wait until tomorrow.  The peaks and water around glowed orange as the sunset. I didn't hike that many miles that day, but everyone I did was full of excitement.  I couldn't waitto see what was in store for tge mext day.

 

Search and rescue

The previous day had really worn us out. The long miles, big elevation change, and waking up at 1 30 am had us beat. The next morning Sam took off way before the rest of us. Dilly, beans, pacer and i all slept in until 7 30. Forester pass was in about 7 or 8 miles and I was curious as to what the snow would be like. Forester is notorious for its steep ascent.  It's basically a little notch between two peaks with a narrow chute that is often chuck full of snow. I got to the base of the pass and decided to put my micro spikes on to help on the steep parts of the snow. The pass ended up not being bad at all. There was only one 20 ft stretch in the chute that you had to be careful on. At the top, I decided to glisade down.  It was so much fun to slide down the pass, however I could only make it halfway down because the snow was thinning out. Once back on trail we came across a hiker named Bingo struggling to get up after having fallen in the snow. We helped her up, but it was clear she was in a lot of pain. She said her hip had been bothering her the last few days, and that her last fall really aggravated it. We decided to split the weight of her pack between us so that she could have lighter load. We followed footprints in the snow and unfortunately they led us to the edge of a rocky cliff. We could see the trail off to the right, so we had to either back track through the snow or scramble across rocks to get back to the trail. Neither option was ideal, but bingo said she'd rather go across the rocks because it was shorter. Every step she took she seemed to be in more and more pain. Once back on trail she made it about more yards until she had to stop because of the pain. It was another 14 miles to the nearest place where she could get off trail. And in those 14 miles she would have to cross over snow fields, ford rivers and make it over a pass. It was pretty clear to all of us that there was no way she would be able to make all of that. We sat down and discussed with her and I told her the best option was to hit the SOS button on her SPOT device. She didn't want to, but she knew it was her only option at that point. We had know idea who, what or when help would arrive so we made her as comfortable as she could be right there on the trail. I tried to lighten the mood by saying how jealous I was that she might get to ride in a helicopter, and that she would be getting a hot shower and food tonight. However, it was only temporary because soon she started developing symptoms of shock. She had the chills, nausea, and was very disoriented. We laid out her sleeping pad and bag so she could lie down. Sam, beans and pacer went down trail to catch her group she was hiking with to let them know what happened to bingo. 3 hours went by and we still had know idea what form of and when help would arrive. We decided that if no help came by 7 we would just set up camp right there on trail and wait it out with her. Fortunately though after 4 hours a helicopter came zooming up the canyon. It was such a huge relief to hear those choppers blades buzzing. The chopper had to land about 1/4 mile away from us as we were still on a ridge. A couple ranger's came up with a stretcher to carry her down the trail.  6 at a time we all took turns holding the stretcher as we carried her down trail.  There were lots of steps, rocks and snow patches we had to go over and bingo yelled in pain anytime the stretcher took a big jolt. It took us about 20 minutes get her down to the chopper. . But once she was there it was a huge relief to know that she would be getting medical attention that evening. We saidour goodbyes to her and watched as the chopper carried her away. Its always hard to see a hiker leave trail, especially ina chopper. It really made me realize how lucky I was not to have any injuries, as there have been plenty of times that i have tripped, slipped or postholed where i have could have seriously hurt myself.  I also thought about how what a great job be a search and rescue ranger would be. Possible career path? I thought abiut that the  of the hike that day.  We camped just before Kearsarge pass so we could have an easy morning into town the next day for our resupply. I also realized that evening that i somehow left my hiking shirt on top of mt whitney with my pocket knife in it. Don't know how managed to do that haha. Oh well I'm not susurprised. I've lost two spoons, three lighters two pot scrapers, two pocket knives, and a now a shirt. Not to bad for 850 miles haha. Luckily there is a good outfitter in bishop.

Whitney round 2

 

After a frigid damp night, we packed up our gear and broke camp as quick as possible so we could warm up on the trail. I walked over my first snow drift since mt san jancinto.  The terrain was changing fast. The trees were getting taller and denser with every mile. The trail also became much more rugged and rocky. We took alot of breaks to enjoy all the shady scenic viewpoints. It was also the first day we didn't have to check the water report. In fact, with all the snow melt, I stopped carrying water altogether. I just drank at the source whenever I was thirsty.  I also stopped filtering water altogether. It had become such a chore in the desert to treat my water. I usually take a look at the topo maps and  check the watershed of the streams I'm at just to make sure I'm getting it from a clean source. I know I'm taking a risk each time i do it, but there is nothing more liberating (especially after 700 miles of desert) than scooping up some crystal clear, ice cold snow melt from a stream. In fact everyone in my group stopped filtering as well. We started calling ourselves the giardi party. Hopefully none of us actually gers sick haha. It really felt like we were ithe sierras now with mountain peaks surrounding us. We ended up camping just passed a stream around 6 that evening. We still had nearly 3 hours of daylight so we spent the evening opening up about aallhe different parts of our lives that led us to the trail. Everyone opened up sharing mamy things that shared with anyone on the trail yet. We all came out here for different reasons, but we all seemed to have the same intangible desire to find direction and inner peace on the trail. That night in my tent, after reflecting on what everyone had said,  i felt like had taken a few more steps in finding hat direction and peace. 

Day 49 18ish miles

We seem to break camp in the exact same order each morning.  Sam now "sheriff" always hits the trail first. Beans and pacer usually follow abiut 15 minutes later. I'm also always 4 th to break camp and dilly is always last. My goal is always to start hiking at 630, but if I don't it's not the end of the world. We came across our first alpine lake of the sierras. We debated going swimming but it was still morning so it was pretty old. Dozens and dozens of lakeswere ahead of us in the days to come so passed on the swimming. I started to really slow down my hikjng pace to enjoythe scenery. I found myself doing 360s on trail taking in the sights.  I was also tripping alot becaise I was always looking at the mountains around me. Orange stream crossing were becoming more common now on the trail. There are three options you have you get to a high warer crossing. 1. Search up or downstream for  a log or rock crossing. 2. Take offf you shoes and go barefoot/sandals across. Or 3. Just Got straighr through with your shoe. At first i refused to get my sjoes wet, but afrer dozens of stream crossings i just started walking straight through in my shoes. It's actuallykind of liberating to just barrel through a stream crossing not caring if your shoes get wet. Dilly and I had a long conversation about religion and my brother as we hiked. Our views on religion are very different but we are always very respectful towards eachother about it. I've learned a lot from her perspective,  and I hope she has learned some from mine. Our goal for the day was to camp at guitar lake just below the summit, but due to the number of hikers this year, the park wasn't allowing any camping there. So we camped at Crabtree meadows a about 8 miles back from the summit. I convinced our group that we should try and make thesummit by sunrise. I missed it the last time i did Whitney on the JMT, so i wanted to make sure i saw it this time.  We went to bed early that night in anticipation of waking up at 1 30 am to start hiking. As i laid in my sleeping bag that night i couldn't help but think about the last time I was on mt whitney. It was where i had proposed to my then girlfriend after hiking the JMT together. I wasn't sure how i was going to feel when i got up there again. However, I though about how young and naive i was three years ago.  I look back at myself then and how much I have grown up to this poin and how Im so happy to be solo hiking the pct. I might not be doing this hike had we gotten married. I actually went to bed excited that evening to make a new memory at the top of whitney. 

Day 50 - 17-18 miles (I've kinda stopped countjng) 

I arose at 130 am, packed my things as quickly as I could and hit the trail at 150. My group was slow getting out of their tents, amd i wanted to make sure i made it in time for sunrise so i hit the trail by myself.  I found myself so excited to get up to whitney I was practically in a jog.the whitney trail was an out and back side trail so i was able to leave all my heavy stuff in amp and slack pack it to the top. With the light pack, a couple caffeine pills and all the excitement I was flying up the trail. I thought to myself "so this is what it's like to be ultralight." I was moving so fast that I stripped down to just my shorts, thermal top, gloves and hat to stay cool despite it being below freezing outside. It was very dark that morning as there was hardly any moon, and there were lots of snow drift and streams to cross. About an hour into the hike I lost the trail somehow. I think I crossed a snow drift and wandered up a dry creek bed by mistake.  I eventually found myself scrambling over boulders trying to find th trail. I had already gone too  far to try and retrace my steps if i want to make it by sunrise. I had a general idea of where the trail was having hiked it before so i kept rock hopping forward hoping I'd eventually run in to it again. However the rocks started getting bigger and  eventually i found myself what looked like a cliff or a ravine edge. I tried scrambling down but it was too steep, especially with just headlight to see forward. I looked at my watched and realized i probably wasn't going to make sunrise anymore. I decided to just sit down andenjoy the spectacular stars and wait until light to find the trail again before I hurt myself.  Just as I sat down I spotted a train of headlights in the distance.  I could see the trail!! Now that I knew exactly where the trail was i could make my way back to it easier.  After about 15 more minutes of boulder hopping and rock scrambling I found myself back on trail.  I took a look at my watch and realized i just might make it if i moved quick.  I started cruising.  I could see headlights ahead of me along the switch backs working their way up to the top.  It was a cool sight to see 20 or  so headlights scattered across the mountain side as i hiked.  I went as fast as i could up the trail.  I'd have to slow down every now and the to cross the snow drifts as one misstep and you'd be sliding down the mountain.  It was getting colder and colder as i went up. I reach in my pack to get a swig of water and realized my water bottles hsd completely frozen solid.  And i was still in shorts!!. But there was no time to change. Before I knew it I had passed all the headlights  front of me.  Being in minimal clothing forced me  move quick in order  stay warm.  About a mile  the summit I could just start to see the horizon start to flow a little.  I was going to make it! The closer I got  faster I moved. I stopped only once since finding the trail to put my down jacket on. I made it to the top though with minutes to spare.  I looked around and realized i was the only one there.  I had the whole summit to myself.  I put on some more clothes and set up mt tripod in preparation for the sunset. My face amd hands were completely numb from the biting wind. i could barely get my fingers to to hit the buttons for my camera. It was an amazing sunrise. Probably the best I've ever seen  my entire life.  All  the snow capped peaks around me turned pink as  the sun came up.  I watched the sun rise up for about a half hour and then ducked into the emergency shelter on top to warm up. One by one thee other hikers crammed in to the shelter to warm up as well. There were about 20 of us in the tiny room at one point. Everyone had there sleeping bags out to keep warm. I stayed in the shelter until my group showed up and then it started making my way back down.  I found a nice snow field to glisade down saving me from having to go down some switch backs. On another snow field I taught dilly how to self arrest with an ice axe. We all got back to our campsite and took a nap. Later we hiked on to try and get a little closer to forester pass so we wcould hit it in the morning.  We crossed of bighorn plateau wich gave 360 view allo the mountains around us. We just happened to camp at the same campsite i had camped at on the JMT.  i remembered the eating dinner there with about 10 other hikers and How about a dozen park service mules barreled through our campsite.  It was fun recollecting on myit trip 3 years ago, but ut was also fun to be making new memories on this section now

Day 51 - 25 miles

 

Into the Sierras

Kennedy meadows was a magical place. I saw friends I hadn't seen since the start of the trail. Everyone hung out all day on the back porch eating food, drinking beer, catching up and hovering around the hiker box. I must have gone into the store to buy more food at least 6 or 7 times while I there. It was also a bit like Christmas as everyone was receiving boxes sent to themselves. I got a new pair shoes, an ice axe, microspikes, my bear canister, food and some other goodies sent by my awesome roomates. My new shoes felt amazing as I slipped my feet in to them. 700 miles of desert (plus about 100 more miles before the pct) had really taken a till on my shoes. I couldn't believe it when I compared the tread on my new shoes to my old ones. While i was excited for all the new gear i also realized that i was adding about 5 extra pounds of gear to my pack. But I also realized i wasn't going to have to carry water anymore so really it balanced out. Our group said goodbye to everybody and we got back on the trail late afternoon the next day.  We made it all of 4 miles before coming across a beautiful cascading river with some enticing pools for swimming.  We had intended to do about 15 miles that days, but the water just looked to good. We camped near the river and spent the evening swimming followed by a campfire. I pulled out my harmonica and serenaded everyone by the fire. I'm getting better but I'm still a far cry Neil Young or Bob Dylan.  We were at a higher elevation now so the nights were getting significantly cooler. We sent up our tents sk we could have a few extra degrees of warmth. And it was a good thing we did because it ended pouring on us for about an hour during the night. Unfortunately though i left my pack outside my tent so it was soaked the next morning.  But the mountain air is pretty dry so it dried out pretty quickly the next day.   

Day 47 - 4 or 5 miles

We all packed up and left camp one by one the next day. With every step we knew we were getting closer to snowy peaks and endless water sources. The trail took us through a beautiful wide meadow that stretch for miles with snow capped peaks in the distance. We had our first "pass" that got up to about 10,000 feet that day. As we were going up we noticed dark clouds in the distance. As they got closer huge thunder claps echoed thriugh the mountains.  You haven't heard thunder until you've heard it near the treeline in the mountains. It's quite a humbling experience. It started to rain on us so decided to wait out the storm a bit. It's started getting pretty huddled up under a tree so we pressed on. As we got higher the rain turned to "snail" as we called it. A combination of snow and hail. It came down pretty hard and pretty soon the ground all around us was white.  Our first day in the sierras and already it was snowing in us! Luckily since it was snow and not rain it was dry soit didnt feel quite as cold. We camped early again because of the storm, but luckily we had just enough time to have a campfire after it blew over. I remember thinking to myself, "what we're the sierras going to throw at us tomorrow?" Despite the cold and the wet, I was still excited to find out. 

Day 48 - 15 miles

 

Tehachapi to Kennedy Meadows

We ended up spending two nights in Tehachapi resting our feet and mentally preparing for the desert section ahead of us. The mojave had wrecked our bodies and sleep schedules so we knew we needed the extra night. We had a normal zero day running town errands,  doing laundry, and eating as much as possible, and resting up. My blisters were finally fully healed so i was excited to have fresh feet for a change. However I wasn't looking forward to the multiple long water carries ahead. 

Day 39 - miles

The next section was rather monotonous some I'm going to condense it into one post.  It was by far the toughest section yet. Our days consisted of hopping from one water source to the next. Which was difficult since just about all of them were at least 20 miles apart. I would wake up as early as possible and try to get to the water source by noon. Then I would take a 4 hour nap, camel up with water, and hike till about 930 or 10 that night. All the other hikers had similar strategies to beat the heat, so at every water source you'd find about 15 hikers all taking naps near the water sources. The majority of the water sources were seasonal springs that were probably only a week or two from running dry. One spring had a flow rate of about 1 liter every 5 minutes. So imagine the wait for 15 hikers trying to fill up 5-6 liters of water. Luckily no one was in a rush to start hiking as it typically got close to 100 degrees each day. At every water source Id have to debate how much water to carry.  I always carried enough to be safe, but sometimes i carried more or less depending on wether i wanted a lighter pack, or to have more water to spare. Shade was also hard to come by, especially at high noon. Sometimes I had to settle for just having my head and shoulders in the shade while the rest of my body roasted.  Dirt was another problem.  With such little water it was difficult to wash my socks. I changed them out every time I stopped, but they became incredibly stiff from sweat and dirt after just a few days.  Doing one 20 mile water carry isn't such a big deal, but when you have to do it back to back to back to back it can really wear you down, especially when it's as hot as it was. We had one 42 mile water carry on this section that was the the topic of conversation for days leading up to it. I spent 5 hours at the last spring before the 42 miler, hydrating and resting as much as possible.  I filled all of my 7.5 liters of water capacity and set out on what I knew was going to be the most difficult stretch yet. They're were rumors of a water cache half way through, but with so many pct hikers going through this year, (and so many of them depending on water caches), I knew I couldn't rely on it. I let myself only drink half a liter every 3 miles, which became increasingly difficult as the miles went by. As I approached the half way point i realized i had gone through 4.5 liters already. With 3 liters left to go 21 miles I got a little worried.  I got to a dirt road where the water cache was supposed to be and found no water in sight. I nearly cried at that moment. I was soo thirsty and It was soo hot, and I knew I still had  21 miles to go. I sat down in a spot of shade and looked at my options. My only real option was to sit in the shade therest of the day and night hike out. I knew i would survive, it would just be miserable. Then took a look at the map and realized it would make more sense for the water cache to be a mile down the trail at a dirt road junction. I hiked down to it trying not to get my hopes up. I was releived as a came around the corner to find 20 or so full 5 gallon jugs of water and 15 other hikers resting in the little shade available. It was my most thankful moment of the trail. I knew i could have made it without the cache, but i was incredibly thankful to be able to get a couple of extra liters to make it easier.

Despite the heat and the long water carries i still appreciated this section. I had some of the most incredible desert sunsets and sunrises so far on the trail this stretch. And as the miles went on i could Se the scenery starting to get a little greener as we approached kennedy meadows. We caught our first glimpse of snowy  peaks in the distance about forty miles out of kennedy meadows and it was a huge morale boost. Kennedy meadows is considered the end of the desert and the start of the sierras.  When we arrived at he general store, everybodythere applauds you (a long standing tradition for arriving thru hikers). It was such a great feeling walk up to the general store  and feeling the sense of accomplishment. I was through with the desert, the long water carries, and the heat.  The snowy peaks of the high Sierra awaited me next. 

Crossing the Mojave

I woke up around 6 the next morning and could already feel it was getting warm. I wish I had got up earlier because we were heading down to the Mojave desert floor where it would be much hotter. Despite the looming heat ahead I got excited when I hit mile 500. I couldn't believe I had gone that far already. The next water source was a guzzler built specifically for hikers. It was swarming with bees and other bugs trying to get a drink. The water was cool and mostly clear, but there were lots of large pieces of debris floating around in it. I used my newly acquired bandana to pre filter out all the big stuff. I had about 15 miles to go before the next water, but it was all downhill so I decided to chug a liter and only carry two. As I descended the heat increased with every step I took. I came to what was supposed to be my next water source but it had gone dry. I still had 6 miles left and only 1/2 a liter left. I was pretty bummed so I took my tyvek out and made some make shift shade to eat lunch and take a little break. I was incredibly thirsty, but I knew I just had to make it 6 more miles. I drank 1/4 liter and lunch and ate all of my food that had any sort of water content.  I spent the next few hours hopping from shade to shade so I didn't overheat. I could see the highway where my next water source was, but it seemed to take forever to get to. I would have paid $20 for an ice cold frost blue gatorade at that point. The next water source was at a trail angels property called the hiker town hostel. When I finally got there I immediately dropped my pack andbegan guzzling water. I found the rest of my group and we all sat in the shade to figure out our plan. The next section of trail was a long the LA aqueduct and had offered zero shade or water for 18 miles, despite millions of gallons of water flowing through it. We decided to night hike out to avoid the heat and carry less water. We set out right at sunset hoping to get as far as we could that evening.  Once it got dark the stars put on a show for us as we hiked. I saw some spectacular slow moving shooting stars that I'll never forget. As the milky way rise up it got brighter and briggter. It was quite and experience walking through the desert at night. The silhouettes of Joshua trees looked like something out of a Dr suess book watching us as we hiked. Along the aqueduct there were raised concrete platforms every half mile or so. We stopped for a break a couple times in them to rest our feet and stare at the stars. We hiked until about 1 am and realized we were all exhausted. We had hiked 30 miles so  far, our biggest day yet. Despite this we still had 6 more miles to go the next water source and shade. I set my alarm for 5 am and told OB1 and Sarah now Dilly dally to be ready to get up early. The stars were amazing so I also did some astrophotography that night. 

 Day 36 - 30 miles

The moment it started getting light I could already feel the air starting to warm. I packed up camp and got going as quick as I could. There was only one spot of shade for the next 20 or so miles where the aqueduct crossed a gully via a bridge. I got to the bridge around 830 am to find pacer candyman and beans passed out in the shade. It felt weird making camp at 830 in the morning,  but it was going to be well over 100 degrees that day. It was hot even in the shade. I tried taking naps, but I kept waking up to pools of sweat on my sleeping pad. By about 10 am there must have been 30 hikers all sleeping under the bridge. It was really high and not that wide so the shade area was rather small. Every 15 minutes hikers on one side of the shade would have to pick everything up and move to the other side as the sun moved. It was a game of sleeping hiker leap frog all day long. At 6pm decided to head out. It was a 20 + mile water carry uphill so I was going to attempt to night hike it all the way through. I passed through giant wind turbines as the sun set that evening. They are mesmerizing to watch up close. Once the sun set the wind really picked up. There were several times it must have gutted over 50 mph. I'd come around a corner and bam the wind would hit melike a truck. A few times i could barely make any forward progress up the hill because the wind was so strong. My pack acted like a wind sail and nearly blew me off the side ofrhe trail several times. I made it till about 330 am and i had to stop. my sleep schedule was so thrown off by this point. I felt like a was drunk stumbling down the trail with only my headlight for light and wind gusting for all directions. Ididnt even blow up my air mattress that night. I just load my tyvek down and got in my sleeping bag. 

 Day 37 - 30 miles

I didn't sleep long as I wanted to get to water, which was the road to tehachapi, before the heat. Also. coppertone was supposed to be at the road again. I had an amazing desert sunrise to hike to. One of the most memorable on the trail thus far. I got to coppertone around 9 am and he greeted me with a root beer float. It was already warm again so it really hit the spot. Dilly dally and OB1 came in a little while after me. The three of us ended up passing out in coppertone's chairs because of our lack of sleep. After a quick nap the three of us hitched into tehachapi and got breakfast at dennys. Later we met up with the rest of the crew and got a motel for the night. As soon as we checked in we all immediately fell asleep for about 4 hours. Night hiking had done a number on our bodies and our sleep schedule. I was glad we were taking a zero the next day

Day 38 - 6 miles

Casa de luna

I got a bit of a late start the next morning,  but I k we I was only going 12 miles to the infamous casa de luna where I most likely would be taking a zero. It was a hot stretch and I didn't have much water so I tried to book it as quick as I could before it got too hot. I surprised to find that there were a tone of bugs on this stretch.  Every time I went through a shady area I would be followed by dozens of gnats in my face. It started to get a little frustrating, but I just kept hiking, constantly waving my trekking pole in front of my face to keep them at bay. I finished all my water with 6 miles left to go. I wasn't worried as I was feeling really strong and was crushing miles at this point. By the time I got to the highway though i was pretty thirsty. Moments after getting to the highway, a van pulled up and offered me a ride to casa de luna, along with a cold gatorade. When I arrived at the house  I was in disbelief. Terry Anderson, the owner, greeted me with a bug hug and gave me a Hawaiian shirt to wear while I was there. She gave me the run down of the place and handed me a beer. I found my group and set up camp in the enchanting manzanita forest in her backyard. Next I went over to the rock painting station where everyone paints a rock to decorate her yard with. It was memorial day weekend so a couple of generous hikers went to the gas station and bought a ton of beer for everyone to share. We also had chili hot dogs and taco salad for dinner. Some "special" brownies were also served for desert. Once it got dark, they brought out a  strobe light and music. Terry had pct class of 2016 bandannas to pass out, but you had to dance in front of everyone to get one. Later a group of musically talented hikers with guitars put on a little jam session for everyone. They even made an original pct song for everyone to sing along to. Around 11 party slowed down and one of the guys from the jam session played some slow jams for us. At one poi t I looked around and everyone had fallen asleep onthe couches listening to the music. It was one of my most memorable moments on the pct so far. 

Day 33 - 12 miles

I slept in he next day, but not long enough to miss out on pancakes amd coffee. I relaxed the rest the day talking with other hikers. At some point everyone toe nails and finger nails got painted. The rest of the day was almost an exact repeat of the night before only a little calmer. Casa de lena is truly an incredible  pct experience that I'm glad I got to be a part of.

Day 34- 0 mile

It was really hard to leave casa de luna the next day, but I knew I had to get going before I sucked into the vortex. Some people had taken 3 zeros there and I wanted to make sure that did t happen to me. Before you leave casa de luna, Terry takes a picture of you and other hikers that are leaving in front of the bed sheet that everyone signs. Right before she takes the picture, she ppulls down her pants and moons everyone. There was a smiley face painted on her butt and it made everyone bust out laughing. It really makes the picture have some good smiles. I gave her a hug and said goodbye and made my way back to the trail. I had a long road walk ahead because of a fire closure on the trail. It was hot but my feet felt good sIcouldnt complain.i took a break 6 miles in at a convenient store with about 5 other hikers. Once back on theactual trail i had to dodge poison oak as it was around every corner. I met back UK with my group at a campground and we all regailled at how much fun we had a casa de luna. 

Day 35- 18 miles

Coppertone, koa and hiker heaven

The next morning was pretty chilly, but being back with the group encouraged me to get an early start. The first few hours we hiked in a cloud again. When you are on the edge of a ridge and a cloud is blowing over its hard to see the bottom and you feel like you ten times higher up than you actually are. As we descended the clouds disappeared and we were back in the desert. At the bottom we ran into our buddy copper tone again passing out trail magic. He told us he would be in tehachapi next week so hopefully see him again. After hanging with copper tone we stopped at the koa for a rest l. We had Chinese food delivered which took two hours to get to us, but was worth all the wait. After resting there most of he day we headed back out on the trail in the evening to try and get a little closer hiker heaven. We camped on an awesome ridge and had amazing views of the sunset. I practiced my harmonica to everyone's delight. 

Day 30 18 miles

The next day we awoke excited to get to hiker heaven, a famous trail angel house run by the saufleys. The trail took us through Vasquez rocks where we saw some I threshing rock formations.  Next the trail led right through the town of Agua Dulce.  Some hiker heaven volunteers picked us up from the trail and saved us the mile walk off trail to the saufleys. When we got there we couldn't believe it. They had everything. There were computers with wifi and printing, sewing machines to repair your gear, a hot shower, a kitchen for hikers to use, couches, and chairs. They were even running a small post office out of their garage since there wasn't o e I. The little town. I had planned on getting alot of stuff done here, but after doing laundry (which they do for you, all you have to do is put it in a big mesh bag) all I could was relax. I literally did nothing all day except eat, drink a few beers, and relax. I  camped next to 25 other tents their backyard, and listened as at least 4 hikers snored as I went to sleep.

Day 31 -8 miles

I didn't get the best sleep with all the snoring and crackly air mattresses, but I felt relaxed as I had no plans on rushing out. I got a rideto the grocery store to do my resupply in the morning.  This time it was for six days, and I could tell my appetite was increasing so I knew this would be a heavy resupply. I also put some extra padding on the hip belts of my pack made from a discarded foam pad I found I found in the hiker box. I had lost enough weight that my hip belt was no longer tight enough for me to keep around my waist. The extra padding worked like a dream, as now the load was back on my hips instead of my shoulders. I hope I do t lose any more weight though!.  I finnally left hiker heaven around 3, thankful for the rest amd relaxation I had there. It's was only 24 miles to the next famous trail angel house, casa de luna, so my goal was only to make it half way that night 

Day 32 - 12 miles

Back with the group

I got am early the next day as I wanted to try and catch up with my group. I encountered poodle dog brush for the first time on this section of trail. Poodle dog brush is a plant the grows in southern California and cause a severe skin reaction similar to poison ivy. Fortunately it is unmistakable when you see it and smells like marijuana so it's easy to avoid. A few hours into the hike I ran in to a southbound hiker named "goal tech" who was passing out trail magic to northbound hikers. He had an assortment of chips and snacks for hikers to choose from. I made It to the to a fire station which was the only water source for a while. I was super happy to see all of my group there, along with two other groups of hikers the " dinner party" and the " camera crew". They all were excited to see me as well because they didn't think they'd see me until the next resupply.  The trail after the fire station slowed down alot because the poodle dog brush became more frequent and closer to the trail. Only like 3 percent of the population is allergic to it, but I didn't want to take any chances as I am severely allergic to poison ivy.evrytime I brushed against something I'd have to stop to make sure it wasn't poodle dog. We all camped at a local backcountry campground. It had picnic rables, fire pits and latrines so we enjoyed the "amenities". Although I'd only give the latrines a 2 stars out of 10 for cleanliness. It would have been a 1 out of 10, but it had toilet paper which I was out of, so it earned it one more star. It was a chilly exposed camp ground so we built a nice small fire to warm up around. It was only my third campfire on the trail and I thoroughly enjoyed it. The campfire has a way of bringing people together in a way like none other. I was glad to be back with the group, and proud of myself for knocking iut back to back 27 miles days. 

Day 29 - 27 miles

Baden powell

We slow filtered out of town on our own the next day. I got back on trail around 12 excited for the climb to mt baden powell. It was pretty steep, but with my original insoles back and fresh feet I was crushing it to the top. I even caught up with the rest of my group who was about an hour ahead of me at the top. The top had amazing views of mt Baldy and the foot hills. There was also very little and it was incredible to watch the clouds roll in from the coast. It was only 3, but since the weather and view was so nice I decided to camp right on top. The rest of my crew continued on along with everyone else so I had the whole top to myself for sunset. As the sun went down, the clouds filled all the valleys so only the peaks and ridges were visible. I went to bed right after sunset because it got pretty cold, but I poked my head a few times during the night to check out the view.  It was just past a full moons so the moonlight lit up all the peaks around me and the clouds below.

Day 27 - 8 miles

The next morning I awoke to a spectacular sunrise, again above the clouds.  I was kinda lonely at the top, but the views I had more than made up for it. Plus I knew my group was only about six miles ahaead, and the I would catch up to hem in a few days. Once on trail I was crushing. My feet were happy to have my original insoles back, which made the trail much more enjoyable. The trail was still up pretty high so I continued to go in and out of clouds throughout the day. There was a short section of trail that was closed to protect and endangered species of frog. The alternate inclined a short road walk but it ended up being very easy. I cruised past mile 400 amd ended up hike 27 miles that day. It was the first day that I stopped because I was actually tired, not because my feet hurt. It was a good feeling. I camped alone, but I slept easy becaise of all the miles I had put in. 

Day 28 - 27  miles

 

 

Zero day

even being in a motel, we only managed to sleep in till 630. We all went to the coffee shop around the corner that offered pct hikers their first cup of coffee free. I don't mess with coffee on the trail so it's also nice to get one in town. Next we hit up the gas station which offered hikers a free hot dog. Then we all split up and did our town errands. I went to the local hardware store to pick up my insoles. I was pleasantly surprised to see a card and snakcs/ treats from my roommates and friend in colorado in my package. It's always a big morale boost when you I get those unexpected trail magic surprises. Next I went over to the grocery store and did my resupply as well as get some fresh food for the rest of the time in town. Some friends of ours got an air bnb with a washer and dryer so they let us clean our clothes there. There was also a bathtub which we filled with hot water and Epson salt to soak our feet. We took shifts of four at a time soaking our blistered feet I'm the tub. We hung out the rest of the evening there them went back to our motel. My feet felt the best they had in weeks and I as itching to get back on trail the next day.

Day 26 - 0 miles

Right into Wrightwood

I woke up the next morning to the sounds of hikers flying past me. I looked at my watch and it was already 9 am. I couldn't believe how late we had slept. Even sleeping in it still took forever to get going. We didn't hit the trail until almost 11. The trail was going up now. The desert vegetation turned alpine forest as the temperature dropped.  Every couple of miles there were sweeping views of the desert below us. We had 17 miles to go before the hitch to Wrightwood where our next resupply and with the later start I need I would be dark by the time we got there. Sarah and tried to pick up the pace, but the higher we got l, the colder and winder it was. The trail followed along a ridge at the top that was pretty exposed in some places. The wind was blowing sustained 30 mph  gusting up to fifty. It was freezing, but it was so cool watching the clouds blow over the ridge. I walked in and out of probably half a dozen clouds on the exposed sections. It was truly a unique view, seeing the sunset as clouds swept over the ridges. When we finally got to the road to hitch into Wrightwood it was almost 8 so I was worried we wouldn't be able to find into town. Fortunately out of nowhere,  a car rolled up within 30 seconds and offered us a ride. 15 minutes later we were in Wrightwood reunited with Sam, now candyman again, and pacer. Our group also adopted another girl "Beans" to the group. It was great to have the group back together after chasing them for five days. We all had a few beers at he local bar and listened to a great blues band play.  The had tons of instruments and offered anyone who knew how to play chance to get on stage. I totally would have joined them but the didn't have an accordion.  Our group split a motel room and crammed i  like sardines. I was relieved when they said they wanted to take a zero because we had just covered 100 miles in just over 5 days. My feet felt strong and i was also looked forward to having my original insoles back I  my shoes 

Day 25 - 17 miles

Mcdonalds and night hiking

The trail out of Silverwood started off pretty mellow but quickly started going up. As we ascended we got better and better views of Silverwood lake behind us. Everyone was looking forward to the mcdonalds that was near where the trail crossed under I 15. Our mouths watered as we talked about what all we were going to get once we got there. We got the top a hill that gave way to sweeping views of cajon pass and the mountains ahead. I ribbon of freeway and railroad track ran right through the middle. It was incredible to see how much traffic there was. After a four mile descent to the freeway the noise from all the cars grew louder. At the interstate it was only a 1/2 mile walk to mcdonalds. I was excited, but I couldn't stand the noise from the traffic on the trail you get so used to quiet that the sound of a freeway cam be overwhelming. Once at mcdonalds I got a modest order of a premium chicken sandwich, fries, drink, two apple pies, a hot and spicy, a six piece chicken nugget,  and a fruit and yogurts parfait. Oh and a sausage biscuit to pack out for breakfast the next morning because apparently mcdonalds serves breakfast alk day now!? It was fun watching the excitement of hikers as they walked in from the trail. A strange thing happened when I was oredering.Floyd Mayweather and his entourage of about 20 people rolled up to McDonald's, probably on their way to Vegas from LA. He only got out of his van once to take a picture with some kids, but it was entertaining to watch scrawny homeless looking hikers out order mayweather's 7 ft tall 350+ pound body gaurds.  We probably hung out at that Mcdonald s for at least 3 hours. Sarah and I finally hit the trail around 6 pm and decided to not hike out. We planned on only going a few miles, but there were zero campsites as the trail was a pretty steep ridge. We ended up doing way more miles than we intended, but it was amazing to watch the clouds roll in from up high. The clouds were mostly blocked by the mountains except at the where they shot through like a canon. I watched in awe as an almost perfectly straight line of clouds blew through the pass in the moonlight. I had never seen anything like it. We ended up doing 27 miles that day/night, my biggest day yet, but it was after midnight when we finished so I was exhausted.  Day 24 - 27 mikes

Copper tone and Silverwood lake

It was very hard to leave the hot springs the next morning.  I wanted to go for one more dip but I knew if I got back in I would end up staying another day. I got a late start after taping up my blisters for half an hour, but my feet felt the best they had in weeks.  Only an hour down the trail though i had a river crossing that I had no choice but to get my feet wet. I had to redo all of my tape again because I didn't want to risk walking with wet tape. It was all pretty hot day woth some long water carrys but there were sweeping views of the desert and mountains ahead of us.at a road crossing their was a trail angel named copper tone waiting by his camper. Copper tone was a very appropriate trail name for him because his tan was dark. He had personal pies, fresh fruit,  cookies and ice cream for pct hikers coming through. It is such a morale boost when I get  unexpected trail magic. Around 3 that afternoon the trail pass by some sort of factory that had some huge concrete pipe pieces.  I walk inside one to get some shade. It was really nice because the concrete was cool to the touch as well. Sarah caught up with me and we hiked the rest of the way to Silverwood lake. It was a dammed lake so the canyon wall seemed to rise straight out of the water. It was a beautiful lake with water just  cool enough to be refreshing but not too cold you didn't want to get in. I met several new hikers one the beach including g string, hodge podge, jesse, listen, and squirrel.  Most of us cowboy camped that night and watched the moonlight dance over the lake. day 23 - 17 miles. 

Deep creek hot springs

I awoke the next day looking forward to the hot springs coming up in 16 miles. I started off a bit slow, but my feet felt better without the insoles in my shoes. The trail had changed alot these past two days. Coming out of big bear we had big tress and dense forests. As the trail descended, the trees got shorter until eventually I back in a desert again. After a mid morning siesta at a water source I was hauling towards the hot springs. I wanted to get there early  so I could have as much time as possible.  I arrived at 2, but even in the mid afternoon heat I went straight to the hot springs to soak my feet. It was incredible. The area was full of pct hikers and locals as well. There were five natural pools of differing tenmperature along with a slack line and a rope swing. After a few of my friends showed up we decided to just stay at tge hot springs for the night. A local gave us some hummus and chips he didn't want to pack out and we devoured it in seconds. Once it got dark, everybody skinny dipped in the springs. We all sat in the moonlight in disbelief of where we were. We stayed up "late" until 930 and then everyone rushed back to their tents as it was a prettychilly night. I had almost left the springs that evening because i had only done 16 miles, but im so glad i stayed vecause It was one of the most memorable nights on the trail.  Day 22 - 16 miles

Fighting blisters

I got my earliest start since campo this morning. I wanted to get going because I wanted to try and catch up to pacer and Sam (now "doublecheck"). I was hoping with two neros in big bear that my feet would be 100 percent, but it wasn't the case. They felt just as bad as they did before getting to big bear. I was incredibly frustrated because my blisters were starting become more than just an annoyance.  I found myself staring down at the feet not appreciating the scenery because I had to watch my foot placement. After eating lunch, I put my shoes back on and my feet already hurt even though i hadn't stood up yet. I decided enough was enough so I took out the insoles from my shoes. [Side note: I experienced some arch pain three days into my hike near mt Laguna. I panicked and bought new insoles from the outfitter there. In reality I propably just just had my laces tied too tight. The insoles felt great for a day, but I got my blister shortly there after. Over the next two weeks more blisters gradually kept forming. They were deep under my calluses.  I drained them every night, taped them up every morning, and changed my socks every time I stopped hiking. I thought my feet just had to adjust to the I soles was all. But blister kept forming under the previous blister. At one point I had 3 blister layered on top of eachother. Lesson learned, don't make drastic changes to your foot wear without testing them first. ] After taming iut the insoles my feet felt alot better. However I could feel every rock I stepped on under my tender feet. After a few miles my feet started feeling much better. I got into a groove and actually ended up doing 24 miles that day. I camped with 5 others hikers near a stream. I soaked my achy feet in the cold stream. After examining my feet felt like I could manage my blisters now. I guess those insoles were just too thick for my shoes. Day 21- 24 miles

Big bear lake

Now that I was back on the pct I was inch higher spirits when I woke up. My feet hurt but I knew I would be taking a couple of neros to resupply in big bear lake. Everyone beat me out of camp that day but i didn't care. It was only 4 miles to the highway to hitch into town so I wasn't in amy rush. I just wanted to get to the post office before it closed to send a few things home I didn't need. On the hike out I came across about a dozen ultra distance runners going south bound on the trail. It was sensory overload because I could smell all of the deodorants,  shampoos, lotions and detergents they were wearing. I couldn't believe how strong the scent was.   I made it to the highway and stuck my thumb iut to hitch not knowing how long It would be before I got a ride. To my surprise within thirty seconds I was in a car on my way to big bear. I got flopped off pretty far from where my trail family was but again I just stuck my thumb out and had another ride within minutes. I met up with my trail family at the hiker hostel and we all shared a Load of laundry. I went over to the post office to send back about 2 pounds of gear i realized i didnt need. Later we went to the local grocery store and began our resupply. We all bought some food to eat first before we shopped so weren't so hungry as we reupplied. Also I carried a basket instead of a cart so I knew how much weight I'd be carrying. After resupplying we all met back up at the hostel. The hostel was full, but the owner told us there was national forest land just up the road where we could camp at. After a short hike up the road we found our free campsite for the night.  It probably wasn't the most legal site as we got some strange looks from cars that drove by, but we were happy. We cowboy camped on a pullout of the dirt forest road and watched the sunset over the lake. Day 19 -4 miles

The next morning the tan clan and I went back to the hostel to hang out. We rummaged through the hiker box again and rested our feet. Pacer took off first for the trail, followed by Sam. Sarah and I hung out at the hostel for a little longer because we wanted a little longer to rest our feet.  We hitched out around 5 and met up with Nick and Beth, an awesome couple in their 30s who we'd been leap frogging back and forth since we started the trail. We hiked together for about 3 miles to a little campsite. It was an international campsite that night because there were People from all over the world there. Germany, Czech Republic, taiwain, amd japan. We had a campfire and reflected on the trail up to that point. It was great hearing about everyone's experiences uo to that point.  I cowboy camped again and watched in awe as the stars exploded across the sky. 

Day 20 - 3 miles

Back on the PCT

I woke up the next morning at the nature preserve dreading the long road walk we still had ahead of us. Fortunately we had a spectacular desert sunrise which lifted my spirits. As we were packing up a dog came up to our camp curious about the food we were eating. Turns out he belonged to the ranger that let us stay at tge preserve. I was the last to break camp and I struggled to keep up with the group. My feet were killing me. I winced in pain with every step I took. After about 1/4 mile though they numbed up and I was able to catch up. The ranger's dog, aptly named "roamer" followed us down the road. He probably covered three times the distance we were roaming around the desert around us chasing rabbits. He would disappear for about 10 minutes roaming the desert and then run right back to us. He followed for about 8 miles until we decided we better call his owner. Kerry the ranger laughed when we talked to him and said it happened all the time. Fortunately we were still road walking So he he just drove up and picked him up. We ran into our friends in the "dinner party". We call them the dinner party becaise the started cooking their dinners during lunch when they took a siesta to beat the heat. It always great to meet back up other trail friends. The road walk was rough, but we were on a dirt road now so it felt a little more like trail.  The road led us through this huge Joshua tree grove. They were the biggest Joshua trees I had ever seen.  It felt like walking through a Dr suess book. I was by myself for most of the road walk as my blisters were still killing me. I eventually met back up with the "tan clan" at a water source not too far from the pct. We were called the tan clan because all 4 of us had tan hiking shirts.  We took a little siesta at the water source and pushed on towards the pct. When we finally back got back on trail we all celebrated. It was only 5 o clock but we set up camp at the first level spot we found. It felt soo good to be done with the road walk. We were Glad we had did the alternate, but given the choice again, we probably all would have skipped it. The alternate was rough, but it made for some interesting stories that we wouldn't have had if we skipped it. Well all cowboy camped and looked forward to an easy weekend in big bear. Day 18 - 22 miles

Vagabonds

I got my earliest start of the trail this morning. I'm getting better about breaking camp now. Also I wanted to get moving because we were at a much lower elevation and it was going to be a scorching hot day. With the early start, I caught an amazing so rise coming up over the mountains.  4 miles in we hit the first water source. It was a snow melt stream so I soaked my feet sore feet for a bit.  The cold water felt soo good on my blisters. The day got hot quick but fortunately there wasn't too much uphill. We came to the junction were had to split from the trail. We had some last minute debates about just going through the closure instead of taking the alternate. Ultimately we choose to take the alternate. We had two miles of alternate trail left before the road walk began. At the raod junction there were some nice picnic table and running water where we stopped to eat lunch. We didn't stop for long though as it was only 1130 and we wanted to get some more miles in before the peak of the heat. We made it to just before a turnoff to the highway we were going to have to walk along and found a dry relatively clean cement culvert that offered the perfect spot to take a break from the heat in. It was only about 4 feet high, but was very wide and had refreshing cross breeze blowing through it. I laid out my tyvek sheet immediately and started napping. Roman only hung around for a little bit and then continued on by himself. It was about 1 so i decided to just rest in the shade and start hiking when it began to cool off. The four of us, Sam sarah pacer and i felt like real vagabonds hanging out under the culvert. I pulled out my harmonica and practiced a little bit to complete the picture. Later we all cooked our dinners under the road. It gave me a real appreciation of what it must be like to be homeless. I know that at any point i could off trail and be home in less than two days if i really wanted/needed too. It would have  been a totally different feeling if that culvert was actually my home and you didn't have a meal to eat under it. After waiting out in the shade we set off on a long grueling highway walk around 430. Fortunately there was a very wide median to walk on so it was pretty safe. However the noise from the traffic was deafening. I yearned for the peace and quiet of the trail. It's amazing how I had forgotten how loud cars, traffic and cities were. After waking in the median for about 3 miles we got the highway and walked up a dry wash thatfollwed the highway. It It was nice to be further from the traffic, but the creek wash was very sandy and difficult to walk in. My feet would slide back every time I took a step and was very painful on my blisters. The creek was led to a residential road which led back to the highway in a little town. WE stopped at the circle k gas station and got some cold drinks. The man inside was extremely nice and let us fill our water bottles and hang outside the store. Never inmy life was i so happy to sit on the ground in front of a gas station. I think we all went back in the store about 3 times getting more snacksamd drinks. I had the best tasting gas station hot dog of my life there, even though i had no idea how old it was. We got some interesting and confused looks from people going in and out of the station. Not many pct hiker go through this area normally so we looked pretty out of place. When people asked wherewe were hiking to it was fun to see the shock on their faces when we said canada. One guy asked us where we're staying and we told him we had no idea, even though it was already 730 by this point. He mentioned a park nearby we could probably vamp at otherwise the nearest motel was 10 miles down the road. we decided to go check out park. We waited until dark as we figured it definitely wasn't legal to camp there. We walked as far as could to the back of the park to a clearing behind some brush and made camp. WeFigured if we got caught the worst that could happen is theyd tell us to leave. We cowboy camped and planned on getting an early start to avoid detection. I was glad to be done for the day but i knew we still had many more milesof road walking to go. Day 16 - 15 or so miles, mostly on roads

We packed up camp quickly the next morning so no one could stumble on us. We hiked out of the little town towards the next town of yucca valley where the next turn off was. It was a brutal road walk,  with parts on the shoulder or in the ditch along side. I powered through it as quickly as I could even with sore feet. We got to yucca valley around 11 and again hung out at a local gas station. They actually a pretty decent selection of fresh fruit there. I had been eating pretty chappy lately so I opted to only eat fresh thing in town.  The cold grapes, apples, pineapple,celery and carrots were incredible. We hung out at the 7 11for about an hour and then went back iut on the "trail". I was glad once we turned off the highway because the traffic reduced significantly on the next road. We had am uphill trek through the heat to the next water at a local restaurant in pioneertown. turns out the restaurant, pappy and harriots was a hot spot for bands to play at.  I wish we were there on a Friday night because we heard it was apreretty hopping place. We ordered some food and then they let us hang out in the shade on the back patio. We set back out around 5 not know how far we wanted to go or wherto camp. On the road, a ranger pulled over and told us we could camp on the nature preserve a few miles up.  We wanted to go furthur, but camping options were limited and we were all pretty beat. We cowboy camped in the parking lot of the nature preserve and enjoyed a beautiful desert sunset. Only 20 or miles till we were back on the pct. Day 17 15 miles